San Antonio Tourist

Breakfast at Il Sogno

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I met a group of friends I traveled to Spain with in 2007 for a mini reunion and breakfast at Il Sogno in The Pearl. My husband and I had been there once for dinner, and I was anxious to give breakfast a try. Texas Monthly named Il Sogno one of the top forty places for breakfast in the state in its December 2011 issue.

Chef Andrew Weissman was in the house, and it was a thrill to watch him work. (How many other San Antonio chefs have been singled out by the New York Times?) He and his staff concoct their mouth-watering creations beneath a sign that reads, “Excellence isn’t our goal, it’s where we begin.”

My companions and I all opted for frittatas or omelets, priced at $10 each, and French press coffee (serves two cups), priced at $7 each. I had the pesto and goat cheese omelet, which was served with two strips of bacon, wedge fries and a slice of homemade whole wheat toast. And yes, it was as good as it sounds! One friend ordered an omelet that was crowned with salmon, and I think I’ll have to try that on my next visit.

Our table had its own tray of butter, local honey, homemade jam and Nutella. What’s not to like about that?! I drink my coffee black, but several varieties of specialty sugar were there for the tasting. When we split the bill including the tip, we each paid $18.50. A little on the pricey side for breakfast but worth the splurge. Our server was very nice and helpful.

We got to Il Sogno at 8:30 a.m., and by the time we left around 10, the place was packed. Outside seating is available, but it was a little chilly the day we were there. Breakfast is only served until 10, so get there with time to spare. After breakfast on a Saturday, you may enjoy The Pearl’s Farmers Market and/or a stroll along the San Antonio River Walk down to the San Antonio Museum of Art.

Il Sogno is open for breakfast from 7:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. Tuesdays through Fridays and 8:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. on Saturdays. Lunch is served Tuesdays through Sundays from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m., and dinner is served Tuesdays through Saturdays from 6 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. Dinner ends at 9 p.m. on Sundays. Il Sogno is closed on Mondays.

Reservations are recommended. Il Sogno‘s phone number is 210.223.3900, and it is located at 200 East Grayson. Buon appetito!

January 28, 2012

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Haunted Tours of Downtown San Antonio

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Spirits of those who died during the Battle of the Alamo, hotel housekeepers who met an untimely end but are still driven to tidy up, and Captain Richard King, founder of the King Ranch, are all apparitions that you might encounter while on a ghost tour of downtown San Antonio.

According to Guillermo Fuentes of San Antonio Paranormal Investigations, San Antonio is one of the most haunted cities in America. For those of us who’ve lived here for awhile, tales of La Llorona, the Donkey Lady, and the haunted railroad tracks on the South Side abound, so my husband and I decided to see what supernatural activity we might encounter in downtown San Antonio.

We met the Sisters Grimm, Lauren Swartz and Allison Schiess, for their Candlelight Ghost Tour in front of the Alamo at 8:15 p.m. The sisters, descendants of San Antonio’s Canary Islands founders, wove tales of the city’s history throughout the hour and a half walking tour that covered approximately 2.5 miles. Dressed in period costumes, the Britney Spears-like microphones and iPad they used were quite anachronistic but appreciated by the 40 or so attendees.

The sisters reminded us that the street we were standing on at the tour’s start was more than likely a mass grave for those who lost their lives during the Battle of the Alamo. They then drew our attention to the Emily Morgan Hotel, north of the Alamo, which was once a hospital but was converted to the hotel in 1984. The top floor still smells like a hospital, according to the sisters.

From there, we headed to The Menger Hotel, south of the Alamo, which is supposed to be one of the most haunted hotels in America. The conscientious housekeeper and the King Ranch founder may be found here, along with the ghost of Teddy Roosevelt, who still hangs out in the bar where he recruited his Rough Riders.

We then walked over to the Casino Club Building on the San Antonio River Walk, where certain supernatural spirits like to hang out in the lobby. From there, we walked to San Fernando Cathedral, and one of the sisters pointed out a skull that seems to be stuccoed into the back of the cathedral. The Canary Islanders and the Native Americans were not the best of friends, and those who lost their lives during their battles still roam San Antonio in the area near the Bexar County Courthouse.

We also visited the Spanish Governor’s Palace, where 36 criminals were hung from the Tree of Sorrow in the back courtyard. At times, the spirit of a dead woman can be seen sitting at a table in the far right window, according to the sisters. The O’Henry House was next on the tour. The famed short-story writer lived here in 1885. Until this tour, I had forgotten that San Antonio sported a fairly large red-light district in this area during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. We walked over to the Casa Navarro from there. This historic home of Jose Antonio Navarro, a leading Tejano in the Texas Revolution, will have its grand re-opening on February 25 from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m.

My husband and I didn’t witness any paranormal activity on our tour. However, it was nice to spend time walking around downtown under a full moon to learn about the haunted history of our beloved city. The Sisters Grimm Candlelight Ghost Tour is just one of many ghost tours in San Antonio, according to the San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau. Most tours are priced in the $15 to $20 range, and reservations are required. Group discounts are available for 10 or more. Wear comfortable walking shoes, and bring your sense of adventure!

January 17, 2012

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Fun things to do and see in San Antonio!

Please use this alpha-ordered list of all my San Antonio Tourist blog posts (June 2010 through December 2011) to plot your next adventure in the Alamo City! Also, if you’re not a subscriber, please take a minute to type your e-mail address into the box on the right-hand side of the page so that you’ll never miss a post. Gracias. ¡Viva San Antonio!

artpace

Bambino’s

Barbecue (B-B-Q) Station

Bistro Bakery Café

Boysville Thrift Store

Brackenridge Park

Broadway

Buffalo Exchange

Carver Community Cultural Center

Earl Abel’s Restaurant

El Paraiso Original Ice Cream & Fruit Bars

España Bar de Tapas

Esperanza Center’s Peace Market

Esquire Tavern

Fiesta on Main

G & G Mobile Bistro

Goodwill Stores and Donation Stations

Government Canyon State Natural Area

Green Vegetarian Cuisine & Coffee

Otra Vez Couture Consignments

Painted Pony

Panchito’s Mexican Restaurant

Pearl Farmers Market

Phil Hardberger Park (East)

Phil Hardberger Park (West)

Salado Creek Greenway (Loop 410 to Lady Bird Johnson Park)

Salado Creek Greenway (McAllister Park to Lady Bird Johnson Park)

Salado Creek Greenway (Robert L.B. Tobin Park to Oakwell Trailhead)

San Antonio Botanical Garden

San Antonio Museum of Art

San Antonio Public Library Main Branch

San Antonio River Walk Christmas Lights

San Antonio Zoo and Aquarium

San Fernando Cathedral

San Pedro Avenue

San Pedro Springs Park

Schnabel’s True Value Hardware

Shag the Salon

Southwest School of Art and Craft

VIA’s #7 Sightseer Special

West Olmos Drive

Faith, Family, Fashion, Festival, Field Trip, Fitness, Flowers, Food, Frugal, Fun, Funky

Alamo, art pace, Barbecue Station, Bicycling, Brackenridge Park, Breakfast, breakfast tacos, Broadway, Carver Community Cultural Center, Central Market, Chris Madrid's, Consignment Store, Demo's Greek Food, Dinner, Downtown San Antonio, Earl Abel's Restaurant, El Paraiso Original Ice Cream & Fruit Bars, España Bar de Tapas, Esperanza Center's Peace Market, Esquire Tavern, Family Fun, Fiesta on Main, Frugal, G & G Mobile Bistro, Goodwill Stores and Donation Stations, Government Canyon State Natural Area, Green Vegetarian Cuisine and Coffee, Half Price Books, Kiddie Park, La Villita, Landa Library, local food, Lunch, McCullough Avenue, McNay Art Museum, Mexico, modern art, North Star Mall, Paletas (Popsicles), Panchito's Mexican Restaurant, Pearl Farmers Market, Phil Hardberger Park (East), Phil Hardberger Park (West), Resale Store, Restaurant Gwendolyn, River Walk, Robert L.B. Tobin, Salado Creek Greenway, Salado Creek Greenway (Loop 410 to Lady Bird Johnson Park), Salado Creek Greenway (McAllister Park to Lady Bird Johnson Park), Salado Creek Greenway (Robert L.B. Tobin Park to Oakwell Trail Head), San Antonio, San Antonio Botanical Garden, San Antonio Museum of Art, San Antonio Public Library, San Antonio River Walk, San Antonio River Walk Christmas Lights, San Antonio Tourist attractions, San Antonio Zoo and Aquarium, San Fernando Cathedral, San Pedro Avenue, Secondhand Store, Shopping, Southwest School of Art and Craft, Souvenirs, St. Anthony de Padua, St. Patrick's Day, Sunken Gardens, Taco Cabana, Taco Garage, Texas, Thrift Store, Tourism, Tourist, Travel, Treasure Hunt, Trinity University, VIA's #7 Sightseer Special, Walking, West Olmos Drive

December 28, 2011

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San Antonio River Walk Christmas Lights

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When I heard that the holiday lights on the San Antonio River Walk had been changed, I was skeptical. The day after Thanksgiving through the Feast of the Epiphany in early January has always been my favorite time of the year in downtown San Antonio. Twinkle lights in the trees along the River Walk at night create a magical space that transports you into a different realm.

The City of San Antonio’s Office of Historic Preservation hosted a Downtown Holiday Lights Tour on Thursday, Dec. 8, for $15, so I decided to go and see if the new lights were going to be a disappointment or not. I’m here to tell you they are NOT. I’m also here to tell you that if you haven’t been downtown to enjoy the lights, you are definitely missing out. Parking is free at meters after 6 p.m., or you may park in one of the city’s downtown garages. The Office of Historic Preservation recommended the one at 400 N. St. Mary’s at Travis for $3.

About 100 people showed up for the Holiday Lights Tour, and volunteer guides led groups of about 10 people each on a 2.5-mile stroll or jog. (I opted for the stroll. One woman in my group said, “Ain’t nobody chasing us.”) Maureen or “Mo” was our tour guide, and she clued us into all of downtown’s history at different points of interest. I’ve lived in San Antonio since 1979, and I never knew until this tour that the zero mile marker for the Old Spanish Trail sits on City Hall’s square.

Mo said that her great-great-great grandfather used to be a stagecoach driver along the trail until he met his untimely end in Yuma, Arizona. Mo is now a historian for the Casa Navarro State Historic Site at 228 South Laredo. We got to take a sneak peek at the wonderful adobe and limestone structure that was all lit up for the holidays, and Mo invited us all back to the grand opening on February 25, 2012, from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. We also passed by San Fernando Cathedral, which was all lit up in anticipation of the birth of Christ. A heritage oak tree on Main Plaza that I took a picture of last year was wrapped solid in white lights. Truly a beautiful sight to behold.

We also had a chance to walk into the lobby of the 1927 Tower Life Building, 310 S. St. Mary’s at Villita, which sported a beautiful, tall Christmas tree. Most noteworthy, though, was the lobby’s snowflake ceiling. What downtown tour would be complete without a stroll by the Alamo? We passed by and paid our respects before heading down Houston Street back to the city’s parking garage. Catto & Catto Insurance, housed in the former Frost Bros., had a beautiful tin nativity from Mexico in its window.

On the “more good news” front, the new lights along the River Walk are energy efficient. More than 1.76 million LED lights now grace the trees along the San Antonio River. The City of San Antonio says there are now 20 times more lights than in past years, and these LED lights use less than half of the energy of the old incandescent lights. Bill FitzGibbons, a San Antonio artist who’s known for his light projects, incorporated 22 of downtown’s street bridges into the River Walk display.

The City’s Office of Historic Preservation doesn’t have any more tours scheduled until February after the lights will be down, but don’t let that stop you. Downtown is very easy to navigate, and you won’t be sorry that you spent some time strolling along the River Walk and downtown’s streets, soaking up the magic of the season. Enjoy!

December 18, 2011

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Pearl Farmers Market

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As the locavore movement gains momentum, San Antonio is ahead of the curve with 22 farmers’ markets at the ready. Pearl Farmers Market is one of the 22, and its central location on the San Antonio River Walk makes it a fabulous Saturday morning destination for both visitors and natives.

Farmers and foodies within a 150-mile radius of the Alamo City set up booths filled with vegetables, fresh eggs, cut flowers, baked goods, herbs, cheeses, bison, coffee, chocolates, lavender and more on the 23-acre brewery site, which has been under renovation since 2002. Now home to the Culinary Institute of America, San Antonio, you won’t want to miss the CIA Bakery Café and their to-die-for treats while you’re there. Il Sogno Osteria, Chef Andrew Weissman’s Italian restaurant at The Pearl, was given a shout out in the New York Times’ “36 Hours in San Antonio” travel feature. Sandbar Fish House and Market is another of Weissman’s Pearl restaurants.

The Pearl Farmers Market also features local chefs who share their know-how. The morning I was there, Chef Michael Sohocki of Restaurant Gwendolyn was giving a session on how to make cheese. Local musicians are also on hand. Glenn Allan and Kim Mackenzie, who bill themselves as part country, part folk and part Tex-Mex, were harmonizing their hearts out for coffee-sipping passersby.

After you load up on local goods, take a stroll along the San Antonio River. You may walk all the way from The Pearl to downtown on the Museum Reach extension of the River Walk. The 1.3-mile walkway passes by the San Antonio Museum of Art, and you’ll find one-of-a-kind objects of art along the way.

The Pearl Farmers Market, 200 E. Grayson Street, is open every Saturday, rain or shine, from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. Parking is available under Highway 281 and along Grayson Street.

November 27, 2011

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Green Vegetarian Cuisine & Coffee

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To show your Mother (Earth) that you care and are concerned about her long-term health, here are 10 things you can do to help make a difference:
1. Reduce. Reuse. Recycle.
2. Drive less. Walk, bike, share a ride, or take the bus.
3. If you must drive, keep your vehicle’s tires properly inflated and avoid idling.
4. Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs.
5. Buy energy efficient appliances.
6. Move your thermostat a few degrees lower in the winter (to 68 degrees) and a few degrees higher (to 78 degrees) in the summer.
7. Install low-flow showerheads, faucets and toilets.
8. Eat at least one meatless meal per week.
9. Unplug electronic devices, like your cell phone charger, when you’re not using them.
10. Plant a tree or two or three.

To assist you in accomplishing number eight on this list, Green Vegetarian Cuisine & Coffee, located at 1017 N. Flores Street and 10003 NW Military, Suite 2115, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner six days a week.

I’ve been to the North Flores location twice now, and I have to give the restaurant a big green thumbs up. Not too many restaurants in San Antonio can say they grow the food they serve. And for the sustainably minded among us, you’ve got to appreciate the restaurant’s reuse of an 1896 structure, their rainwater catchment system, and their large bike rack. On top of all of this, their food is quite tasty. I had a monk’s bowl (quinoa, tabouli, beans, kale, and chipotle aioli) the first time I went, and I had their lasagna special on my second visit. I would order both again, but first I want to try their other dishes.

Brothers Mike and Chris Behrend and their mother, Luann, are the brains behind Green. Mike became a vegetarian in 2005, and Chris jumped on board in 2010. It seems that more and more people are appreciating the goodness of meatless meals. The restaurant was packed both times I went for lunch.

Green’s downtown location is open Sundays through Thursdays from 8 a.m. until 9 p.m. and Fridays from 8 a.m. until 8 p.m. Their Northwest Military location is open on Sundays from 8 a.m. until 9 p.m.; Mondays through Thursdays from 10:30 a.m. until 9 p.m.; and Fridays from 10: 30 a.m. until 8 p.m. Both locations are closed on Saturdays.

October 31, 2011

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Phil Hardberger Park (East)

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I couldn’t help but think of the movie “Field of Dreams” when my husband and I visited the eastern side of Phil Hardberger Park, located at 13204 Blanco Road. “If you build it, they will come” could be the park’s mantra.

Children, parents, dogs, dog lovers, joggers, walkers, nature lovers, tricyclists and bicyclists were all taking advantage of San Antonio’s cooler fall weather to enjoy this welcoming green space. The park covers more than 300 acres when coupled with its western portion, located at 8400 N.W. Military Highway, and it really is “an island of green in a sea of urban development” like its conservancy website claims.

We walked the Geology Loop Trail (.81 mile) and the Water Loop Trail (1 mile). When you go, see if you can spot the tree dragon. You’ll also want to keep an ear out for tinier living dragons that scurry along the ground. You’ll hear them before you see them because their camouflage works so well. Last but not least, keep an eye out for the cochineal growing on cactus that the Aztec and Maya harvested to make red dye.

Since drought-plagued San Antonio remains under a burn ban, the park’s barbecue grills were out of commission. Picnics aren’t prohibited, however, and you may eat while you watch kids enjoy the park’s grand playscape. Four-legged creatures have their own playground to enjoy. The 1.8-acre dog park is subdivided between large dogs and small dogs, and ample shade provides a great setting for canines and humans to relax.

The park is open seven days a week from sunrise to sunset. Upcoming events include Batty for Bats on Saturday, Oct. 22; Native Plant Hike on Saturday, Nov. 5; and Dinosaur George on Saturday, Dec. 3. Call (210) 207-3111 to make reservations. A $3 per individual or $5 per family donation is requested.

October 10, 2011

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Phil Hardberger Park (West)

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San Antonio was named one of the nation’s top can-do cities by “Newsweek” in its Sept. 19, 2011, issue for our 42 percent increase in park space. In large part, we can thank the 311-acre Phil Hardberger Park for that honor.

Max and Minnie Tomerlin Voelker ran a dairy farm on this land for years and years, until the City of San Antonio acquired the property for nearly $50 million from their trust, according to a May 22, 2011, article in the “San Antonio Express-News” written by Sarah Mills. Then-Mayor Phil Hardberger pushed for turning this prime piece of real estate into a green space for all of the area’s citizens to enjoy. Thanks to the park’s conservancy and funds from the City of San Antonio and the State of Texas, Hardberger’s dream is becoming a reality.

I visited the newly opened western portion of the park with my two dogs, and I was impressed by the number of amenities available: 2.46-miles of multi-use trails, picnic tables, basketball courts, a giant playscape for kids ages two to 12 and a 1.8-acre dog park. Plus, a public art display titled “Making Hay” by Tom Otterness is fun to wander through. We did the .8-mile Oak Loop Trail, and except for one cyclist, we had the place to ourselves. A goal of the conservancy is to protect the heritage live oak trees in the park and create a woodland habitat. Our walk from the parking lot to the loop and back was just the right length; however, I do recommend that you bring water with you. Fountains are available near the playscape, but you might get thirsty out on the trail.

The western portion of Hardberger Park is located at 8400 N.W. Military Highway, just south of the Jewish Community Center. The numbers 97 and 534 VIA buses will drop you off at the park’s entrance. Treat yourself to San Antonio’s newest park! I look forward to checking out the eastern portion at 13203 Blanco Road in the near future. The park is open seven days a week, from sunrise to sunset.

September 29, 2011

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VIA’s #7 Sightseer Special

For the frugal travelers among you, here’s a deal that you won’t want to miss! For $4, you may purchase a one-day VIA bus pass that’ll chauffeur you from one San Antonio hot spot to another.

Your bus driver’s name might not be James/Jamie, but just ask him/her to let you off at the next stop. Here are the destinations along VIA’s #7 Sightseer Special route, which begins on Market at Presa (downtown) headed north or Funston near North New Braunfels (Botanical Garden) headed south:

La Villita

The Alamo

San Antonio Children’s Museum

San Antonio Museum of Art

Brackenridge Park

Trinity University

University of the Incarnate Word

Central Market

Witte Museum

Botanical Garden

You’ll be hard pressed to visit all 10 places in one day, but why not give it a try? The downtown jump-on point is just a few blocks from the Convention Center, so for those of you who are in San Antonio without a car, VIA’s #7 Sightseer Special is the way to go. The one-day pass is also good for unlimited rides on all regular buses, express buses and streetcars. You may purchase your one-day pass on VIA’s online store.

September 13, 2011

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La Villita

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San Antonio’s La Villita (little village) is the city’s original melting pot. Native Americans, Mexicans, Spaniards, East Texans, Texas Rangers, Germans, Swiss, French and Anglos all called this little piece of land home.

Located in the shadow of the Hilton Palacio del Rio along the banks of the San Antonio River on South Alamo at Nueva Streets, La Villita’s melting pot heritage lives on today through the countless festivals that are held there each year: Night in Old San Antonio, Soul Food Festival, Festival of India, St. Patrick’s Day Festival, Mardi Gras, Fiesta Noche del Rio and the Diez y Seis Celebration, to name a few.

My personal favorite is the International Accordion Festival, on October 7-9 this year (2011). Click on the artists’ photos to sample their music, ranging from Tex-Mex to Tango to Bulgarian Wedding Music and more. This FREE event never disappoints. The festival features four venues for its musicians: the Arneson River Theater, Maverick Plaza, Juarez Plaza and Bolivar Hall. It’s tough choosing where to go, so we find ourselves running back and forth among venues. The festival’s weather is usually fabulous, and you have a gigante choice of food and beverages. Volunteer opportunities abound. Do NOT miss this festival! It’s one of San Antonio’s best, if not THE best.

For those who just want to stroll through La Villita on an off-festival day, you’ll find un monton of shops that sell art, pottery, stained glass, jewelry, textiles and more. Make sure you go into the River Art Group Gallery next to the Little Church of La Villita. It is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., as are all of the shops in La Villita. More than 200 artists’ original works are featured here. For less than $100, you might just find the bluebonnet painting you’ve been searching for all these years. Plus, the River Art Group Festival is coming up on Oct. 3-4, 2011 in La Villita.

If you’re in need of your own venue for a wedding or a quinceañera, the La Villita Assembly Hall is worth checking out. It’ll hold up to 500 people, and it is also the site of many ethnic festivals. I have very fond memories of the Greek Funstival being held there for many years before it moved over to St. Sofia Greek Orthodox Church. Their 51st festival will be Oct. 21-23 this year.

La Villita’s website offers a thorough walking tour of the village with all of the structures’ histories and current inhabitants. Check it out!

August 31, 2011

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San Antonio Tourist

Breakfast at Il Sogno

Haunted Tours of Downtown San Antonio

Fun things to do and see in San Antonio!

San Antonio River Walk Christmas Lights

Pearl Farmers Market

Green Vegetarian Cuisine & Coffee

Phil Hardberger Park (East)

Phil Hardberger Park (West)

VIA’s #7 Sightseer Special

La Villita

Denise Barkis Richter, Ph.D.

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